Noord gets stellar 3-bell review from Laban


Joncarl Lachman, chef/owner of Noord, the Nordic BYOB that opened in may at 11th and Tasker, told us that neighbors have been dropping off champagne to congratulate him for the ringing endorsement by the Inquirer’s Craig Laban.

In his glowing three-bell (“excellent”) review, Laban lauds the chef for his “penchant for updating rustic flavors rather than modern cuisine.”

From the moment we dove into a bread bowl of house-baked Swedish farm crackers and a loaf of coarse barley bread, ripped peasant-style and charred on the grill, I knew we had a winner.

In fact, so glowing was the praise that it’s surprising Laban didn’t bestow a coveted fourth bell. The only minor complaint the critic had was that it was too hot outside.

“I am over the moon. So happy,” Lachman told us. “It’s just really moving. In the neighborhood people are congratulating us in the street.”

Read the full review here. Come prepared with a hanky to mop up the drool.

Laban also managed to squeeze in a tip of the hat to the neighborhood as a whole:

The corner dining room wrapped in folding cafe windows at 11th and Tasker Streets is spare but elegant in a Northern Euro way, with an original tin ceiling, naturalistic photo art from Lachman’s partner, Robert Moysan, and a fountain-side view of a neighborhood that’s evolved into the city’s most exciting culinary scene.

Ah, it’s nice to be recognized, isn’t it?